Best Pencil Sharpeners for Coloured Pencils

Coloured pencils (colored pencils in the US) are soft, and soft things break. If you have ever sharpened a lovely, expensive pencil only to watch the core fall out in pieces, you know the frustration. The instinct is to blame the pencil. In practice it is very often the sharpener.

This guide explains why cores snap, what to look for in a sharpener, and the three we would start with. It also covers technique and maintenance, because a good tool used badly still ruins pencils. For a step-by-step method see how to sharpen coloured pencils, and for softening and smoothing once you have a point, best blending tools for coloured pencil.

Why coloured pencil cores snap

Coloured pencil cores are made from pigment and binder, and many are soft wax. That is what gives you rich, creamy colour, but it means they have far less structural strength than a graphite or a hard writing pencil.

Several things put stress on a core:

• A dull blade. It tears and crushes the wood instead of slicing it, sending shock into the core.
• Too steep an angle. A stubby, blunt cut leaves a wide wedge of core that breaks under pressure.
• Rough handling. Dropped pencils often develop internal breaks, so a pencil that keeps snapping even in a good sharpener may already be cracked.
• Rushing. Twisting hard and fast heats and stresses the core.

Because a soft pencil is expensive and every snapped tip wastes pigment, a good sharpener pays for itself. Michael’s advice in his guides is blunt: if your pencils keep snapping, it is often the sharpener, not the pencil.

A metal pencil sharpener with coloured pencil shavings.

What to look for

Blade quality. A sharp, fine blade that cuts cleanly matters more than anything else. Replaceable blades are a big advantage because you can renew the edge when it dulls.

Point length. A long, tapered point is ideal for detail such as eyes, hair and fine textures, because it lets you draw with the very tip. A shorter point is stronger and better for broader coverage.

Gentle fit. The pencil should sit firmly without wobbling or being crushed.

Waste collection. Wood shavings and pigment dust are messy. A sharpener that traps them keeps your workspace and your paper clean.

Blade type: what actually matters

You will meet a few designs, and each behaves differently.

Type	Strengths	Watch out for
Fine metal hand sharpener, single blade	Precise, gentle on cores, blade can often be replaced	Slower, takes practice
Long-point hand sharpener	Long tapered points for detail	Fragile points if you press hard
Automatic or electric long point	Fast, consistent, minimal effort	Can break soft cores if blades are dull or poor
Craft knife or blade	Full control, ideal for shaping	Slow, needs skill, cuts more wood away

Two black spiral-bound sketchbooks stacked together.

The best coloured pencil sharpeners

Derwent Super Point

The Derwent Super Point creates long, tapered points that suit detail work, especially around eyes, hair and fine textures. It is a natural pairing if you already use Derwent pencils, and a sensible first purchase for artists who want a dedicated tool for delicate points. See our Derwent coloured pencils reviewed for the pencils that suit it best.

M&R brass sharpeners

M&R brass sharpeners are small, precise and durable, and gentle on cores. Michael describes them as incredibly reliable, and many professional artists swear by them. They are simple, so there is nothing to break, and a sharp blade cuts cleanly rather than crushing the core. If you want one dependable hand sharpener that will last for years, this is where we would start.

KUM Automatic Long Point

The KUM Automatic Long Point produces razor-sharp points with minimal breakage, which makes it perfect for artists who need precision. It is a good choice if you sharpen frequently or draw with a very fine point, and it is quicker than a hand sharpener. Like all mechanical sharpeners, it needs a sharp blade to be kind to soft cores.

Hand or electric?

Hand sharpeners give you control. You feel the resistance, can stop the moment the point is right, and rarely oversharpen. They cost little, are quiet, and work anywhere.

Electric sharpeners are quick and produce even points, which helps if you work through many pencils. The downside is less feedback, and cheaper models can crush soft cores. If you go electric, choose a long-point automatic model and stop as soon as the point forms.

For most artists working in soft wax pencils, a good hand sharpener is the safer choice, with an automatic one as an optional extra.

Sharpening technique

Even a good sharpener fails with poor technique.

1. Hold the pencil steady and turn slowly. In a hand sharpener, rotate the pencil rather than the sharpener when you can, with light, even pressure.
2. Stop as soon as the point forms. Continuing to sharpen wears the core away for no benefit.
3. Tap out loose crumbs before drawing, so you do not scratch the paper.
4. Sharpen away from your work, and never over a drawing.
5. Do not force a snapped tip. If a pencil breaks repeatedly, retire it or check it for internal cracks.

Sandpaper pointing

A small sandpaper block is a useful finishing tool. After sharpening, a few light strokes at a low angle refine the tip to a fine, controlled point, and let you re-point as you draw without a full sharpen. Use it for shaping only, not as your primary tool, and keep the dust off your paper.

Maintenance

• Replace dull blades. If a sharpener starts to tear the wood or leave a ragged edge, change the blade or replace the tool.
• Clean the shavings. Wax and pigment build up and clog the mechanism.
• Store pencils properly. Keep them in a case or tin so the tips do not knock together and crack.
• Avoid drops. Internal breaks can only be cured by removing the damaged length.

Sharpening for different pencils

Softer pencils need extra care. Firm oil-based pencils such as Polychromos hold a longer point and tolerate a longer taper; soft wax pencils prefer a slightly shorter, sturdier point. See the Polychromos review and the Luminance review for how each behaves, and wax versus oil-based pencils for the underlying difference.

Troubleshooting common problems

The point breaks the moment you draw. The core may be cracked inside the wood, or the point is too long and thin for the pressure you use. Shorten the taper, lighten your touch, and if it persists, sharpen back past the break.

The wood tears or splinters. The blade is dull. Replace it or change the sharpener.

The point is off-centre. The core may be poorly bonded in the pencil, or the sharpener is not gripping evenly. Try a different sharpener before blaming the pencil.

Wax smears in the sharpener. Soft wax builds up on blades and clogs the mechanism. Clean the blade with a cloth and tap out the shavings regularly.

Points dull too fast. Soft pencils simply do this. Rotate the pencil as you draw and refresh the tip with a sandpaper block rather than a full sharpen.

Sharpening, workflow and saving pencils

A small routine saves time and pencils. Before a session, sharpen the pencils you expect to use for detail and lay them out in a tray or case. Keep the dull ones for broader tone. When a pencil gets short, use a pencil extender rather than fighting with a stub, because a tiny pencil is harder to sharpen safely and to hold at a low angle.

Storage matters as well. Keep pencils in a tin, roll or case with the tips protected, because soft cores crack when they knock against each other in a drawer. Avoid leaving them in a hot car or on a sunny windowsill, where softer wax pencils can warp.

Which sharpener for which artist

If you…	Consider
Want one reliable, low-cost tool	An M&R brass sharpener
Draw fine detail and want long points	A Derwent Super Point
Sharpen many pencils quickly and want precision	A KUM Automatic Long Point
Need occasional ultra-fine tips	Any of the above plus a sandpaper block

Match the tool to the pencils in your case too. See best coloured pencils for which pencils are firm and which are soft, because firmer pencils tolerate more aggressive points.

The short version

If your pencils keep snapping, upgrade the sharpener before you blame the pencil. Start with an M&R brass sharpener for reliability, add a Derwent Super Point or a KUM Automatic Long Point for long detail points, sharpen slowly, and replace dull blades. Good points make detail easier and waste less pigment, and once you have them, the rest of our coloured pencil guides will make more sense.